Like Coca-Cola Clear or white chocolate, white balsamic vinegar seems...wrong. But then we spotted bottles of it all over the kitchen of our #7 Best New Restaurant of 2018, Che Fico, and wondered: Had we been overlooking something secretly great all along?
The answer: Yes. Yes we have. At Che Fico, chef David Nayfeld uses white balsamic to brighten up vegetable dishes and salads—anything that could use a touch of agrodolce, or sweet-tart flavor. It’s floral and fruity with a sweet finish, like a wine we wouldn’t mind drinking a glass of. Nayfeld uses a mixture of white balsamic vinegar and butter to glaze roasted Brussels sprouts for his kaleidoscopic Chopped Salad, which he says is inspired by his serious love and nostalgia for the Olive Garden chopped salad. The glossy and rich Brussels sprouts join a tangle of honey-roasted squash, marinated chickpeas, cured meats, and cheese in a salad so complex and flavorful that we had to get the recipe.
We often use O California’s white balsamic ($15) in the BA Test Kitchen.
So what is white balsamic, exactly? It starts out same way regular balsamic vinegar does: with grapes. Both types begin with a white-grape “must” (the term used to describe the crushed fruit plus the skins, seeds, and stems). To make regular balsamic, the must simmers for basically ever, until it becomes syrupy and caramelized. The resulting vinegar is then aged in a series of barrels for several years, which add to the vinegar’s flavor, color, and character. For white balsamic, however, the must is pressure-cooked to prevent it from browning before it’s aged for a short time. The result is a golden-hued vinegar that tastes like a gentler version of syrupy balsamic.
Restaurant chefs use white balsamic vinegar not only for its milder flavor, but also because it won’t turn a salad dressing or sauce brown the way the regular stuff will. Use it in any vinaigrette recipe, for dressing roasted vegetables, or for deglazing a pan of crispy chicken thigh bits. Don’t know where to start? Acetaia Cattani ($15) and O California ($15) are a couple of our all-around favorites for the price and quality.
Then make the Che Fico salad:
The dressing and assembled ingredients alone make this salad a star. But the extra effort of cooking the vegetables is worth it we promise!
