Travel|FARE OF THE COUNTRY; Who Invented Brunswick Stew? Hush Up and Eat.
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FARE OF THE COUNTRY
By Ann Pringle Harris
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MENTION Brunswick stew to a Southerner and you're likely to hear lyrical accounts of open fires, black iron pots, and a mess of squirrel, rabbit and possum that somebody's daddy brought home. Never mind that hardly anyone now alive has ever taken part in such a ritual -- it's all part of the legend. Also integral to the legend is the rivalry between Georgia and Virginia about the origins of the dish, made nowadays with chicken and a variety of meats and vegetables. On the surface, the dispute is geographical: Was the dish first prepared in the county of Brunswick, Virginia or in the town of Brunswick, Georgia?
Both states stand firmly behind their local tales and archival records, but it's when the talk gets closer to home -- to questions of texture, essential ingredients, methods of preparation, taste -- that things really get hot.
Virginians think Georgia's stew is too spicy; also, it's full of smoked pork, which is merely an option in Virginia. Georgians find Virginia's stew mushy and thick; theirs is more liquid, with identifiable chunks of vegetables and meat. In Georgia, Brunswick stew almost always contains peas; in Virginia, almost never.
Fran Kelly, co-owner with Lisa Cook of Frannie's Place on St. Simons Island, Ga., and an award-winner in several Georgia-Virginia stew cook-offs, says Virginians cook their meat down to shreds and thicken the stew with potatoes.
"I'd call it more of a chicken muddle," she said, referring to a Southern dish of that unlikely name.
But speaking as a Virginian and a cook who has also won awards in bi-state competitions, John Drew Clary of Lawrenceville, the Brunswick County seat, explained that in Virginia Brunswick stew is a full meal -- that's why they like it thick instead of soupy -- whereas in Georgia it is simply a side dish.
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