New to the Pinewood Derby? Don't worry—we've got you! If you're new to Scouting or looking for new car designs, read on to learn more about basic Pinewood Derby car shapes, which you can help your Cub Scout sketch and build before all the racing fun begins!
Pinewood Derby season is upon us! When I started actually thinking about it, one of the first questions in my mind was, “How do people choose a car shape?” I did a lot of research and realized (after I had decided to make up my shape, which turned out to be the Fish-shape) that there are so many free templates (and paid templates) online! But with so many car designs, how does one decide what car shape to use? To make your Pinewood Derby car-building experience much easier, we've put together a short list of essential car shapes you can customize using decals and paint to make your own!
The wedge is a classic and probably the easiest shape (besides keeping a block) to build your Pinewood Derby car. The Wedge is the foundation of many cool car designs, and it is designed to be aerodynamic and is a one-cut wonder.
2. Pinewood Derby Car Shape: The Arrow
The Arrow takes the Wedge to the next level. With a definite pointier front, the slim and cut-in sides lead to a flared back end. With so much of the wood cut out, the weight department leaves plenty of space to add weight back in exactly where it counts. Wondering where that is? Check out our Tips and Tricks blog!
3. Pinewood Derby Car Shape: The Fish
This template has become quite popular – it employs the lower profile front and adds a bit more curving, making it look a little fish-like. Many people also add in a top fin to turn it into a shark! This shape also works as a base for Nascar-looking racecars.
Think classic cop car shape. It is a bit boxier, but this car never goes out of style. After all, who doesn’t love the Dukes of Hazzard look? Plus, this one is fun to paint. If you want to keep the shape but change the look, why not paint it with the old-school Dale Earnhardt Wrangler colors and #3?
5. Pinewood Derby Car Shape: The Semi
Now, science tells us that we want a lower-profile car at the front than at the back, but sometimes, you have to take one to have a cool-looking vehicle (or, in this case, a truck). You can also take a cool spin on the semi and hollow out the back end to make more of a pickup truck version! I mean, Joe Diffie knew all about that life when he wrote the “Pickup Man” song!
Shop Pinewood Derby Kits and More at ScoutShop.org
Whether you need a Pinewood Derby car Racing kit or are looking for paint, peel-n-stick decals, or glow-in-the-dark wheels, ScoutShop.org is your one-stop shop for all things Pinewood Derby!
The wedge is a classic and probably the easiest shape (besides keeping a block) to build your Pinewood Derby car. The Wedge is the foundation of many cool car designs, and it is designed to be aerodynamic and is a one-cut wonder.
Much has been written about the physics of pinewood derby cars, and this is one rare case in racing where heavy = fast. Aerodynamics have little effect in such a short race, but weight does and putting the weight at the back of the car will make your car faster on the flat of the track.
The rear wheels should be set at a 3-degree angle (camber). This angle reduces friction as only a tiny portion of the wheel makes contact with the track.
Ride on three wheels by raising one wheel off the track.
You will move faster if you have to get only three wheels rotating, giving you a 1.1-car advantage over an identical Pinewood Derby car riding on four wheels.
The often repeated mantra among league racers regarding the car body is “Thin to Win!” In other words, a thin body is the fastest. As a Pinewood Derby® car speeds down the track, it has to move the air it encounters out of the way. This pushing of the air creates drag and slows the car.
No loose materials of any kind (such as lead shot) are allowed in the car. No bent axels, and all 4 wheels need to be on the track. Once a car passes inspection and is entered into the race, only race committee members can touch it.
Slide the axles and wheels onto the car and glue into place. Use an epoxy or nonresin glue, and make sure you don't get any on the surface of the axle where the wheel rides.
If the weight is placed towards the back of the car, it has longer to "drop" (by several inches) than if the weight is placed towards the front of the car. This difference is highly significant in terms of race times. Therefore, weight should be concentrated towards the rear of the car.
For smooth tracks, set the balance point at 0.75 to 1.0 inch in front of the rear axle. For rough tracks, target 1.0 to 1.50 inches in front of the rear axle.
Wheels may be sanded/lathed/filed to smooth out molding imperfections in the tread area. The contact surface of the wheel must be flat as it sits on the track. Beveling, tapering, significant rounding, pointing, shaving, concave, wafering, etc. of the wheel contact area is prohibited.
The wheels are a significant source of potential energy drain on a Pinewood Derby® car. Raising the non-steer wheel (typically the front left) so it does not contact the track reduces the amount of energy used to start the wheels spinning.
For pinewood derby cars, extending the wheelbase provides an advantage due to the following reasons: On Ramp-flat tracks2, best speed is attained by locating the center of gravity (COG) of the car as far back as possible while still maintaining stability (typically this is about one inch in front of the rear axle).
A coping saw should be your next best choice. After you cut your car with a saw, use a Wood Rasp to smooth the cut and give your car more shape. Use a metal file to smooth out the grooves created by the rasp.
Remember, a rectangular car is not an aerodynamic design. The most basic aerodynamic design is a simple wedge. If you don't have time to design a complex car, a wedge will work just fine. Download a Pinewood Derby car template PDF to help you create your design.
Assuming all other factors are equal, a heavier car will be faster than a lighter car. The Pinewood Derby rules limit the weight of each car to 5 ounces.
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