To prime...or not to prime? - FineScale Modeler (2024)

wreklund

• Member since
  February 2007

Alright friends, I'd like to hear both sides of this argument. I've read threads from both sides and would like someone to sell me on whether or not priming styrene is really necesary before applying paint. Many say that by ensuring a clean, oil-free surface one will have no problems with adhesion. Others swear by priming before painting. I've read that todays paint technology is such that the paints offered are designed to "stick" very well to plastic.

It would seem that the extra layer of product on the model would greatly diminish the detail considering the minute depth of the recessed panel lines. After paint, future and dullcaot, one would think that those tiny panel lines would be filling up.

Can anyone tell me why I really need to prime before painting my plastic? If so, does everything need to be primed, or just the large surfaces?

I will be using acrylic paints

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firesmacker

• Member since
  September 2007
• From: Crystal Lake, IL

I can't really go to much into depth, but I have noticed that priming before acrylics seems to work well. On my first armor kit, I used acrylics and didn't prime. The road wheels looked great. A few days later there were a bunch of spots where the paint had just "disappeared". That is just my . I am sure you will hear plenty of opinions from every side. Maybe no priming and an extra coat after waiting would help. Once again, there are as many opinions as there are Modelers here and every one of them has their own personal ways to accomplish awesome results.

Long story short, it seems that whatever type of paint you use, It can never hurt to prime your model before hand. I have yet to see anyone on here say that priming was a detriment.

Hope this helps,

Jeff

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usmc1371

• Member since
  October 2005
• From: Maryland

I use acrylics as a base coat. I always prime. I use only primer paints designed for modeling such as Testors or Tamiya. I've never had a problem and I've never seen a lose of detail. I've painted without primer and I've always have chipping problems. Primer helps a lot with acrylic painting. Try it, you'll like it.

Jesse

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Phil_H

• Member since
  August 2005
• From: Sydney, Australia

Another good reason for priming is to provide a uniform base color before applying your color coats. When your model has additional bits of scratchbuilt detail, or resin or PE add ons, a coat of primer ensures that the base you are painting on has no dark or light spots which may have an effect on the final finish.

It can also be helpful to prime (with a lighter color) a model which is molded in a dark color styrene (eg. Tamiya's famous dark green) to make it easier to see what you're doing.

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gjek

• Member since
  February 2003
• From: Tacoma WA

Yes and no. I never have had a problem painting a plastic kit without primer. I only use primer in certian cerc*mstances. If you are using metal pieces, prime with an automotive primer. I had a metal gun tube for a T-62 and the acrylic paint scratched off very easily. The next guntube I used I primed before the acrylic coat and the paint held without scratching off. I see no advantage of priming due to different colored parts. Two base coats would do the same thing.

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Summit

• Member since
  October 2007
• From: Inland Northwest

Phil_H wrote:

Another good reason for priming is to provide a uniform base color before applying your color coats. When your model has additional bits of scratchbuilt detail, or resin or PE add ons, a coat of primer ensures that the base you are painting on has no dark or light spots which may have an effect on the final finish. It can also be helpful to prime (with a lighter color) a model which is molded in a dark color styrene (eg. Tamiya's famous dark green) to make it easier to see what you're doing.

Since I use MM Enamels only, I use a primer coat of MM flat white , so when I apply color there will be even coverage. I find that the seams filled with Squadron Green, or Zimmerit made from epoxy putty will not take as much paint to blend in with the rest of the model.

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some assembly required

• Member since
  August 2007
• From: n/w indiana

Posted by some assembly required on Friday, March 28, 2008 12:14 PM

i built a 1/35 sherman firefly with a metal barrel,low and behold it chipped because i didnt prime it. so now i always prime with either floquil grey if i AB it on or Tamiya fine white metal primer(in spray can). Both give great adhesion,good color coverage,and very little loss on detail.

good luck

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Wulf

• Member since
  February 2006
• From: Southeast Louisiana

Indeed one needs to prime when using acrylics. Once you have your great paint job finished and pull away the mask, you will see your nice work go with the tape! It will take only once for you to change your mind.

Andy

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avadon

• Member since
  March 2008
• From: MA

I use the testors and model masters solely and I never prime, but I should on the metal stuff because i'm starting to see what others are talking about. I do metalwork soI'm painting more then just model pieces. Often times your sanding metal pieces(before paiting) up to 400-600 grit and above and thin layers of plastic (paint) just don't want to bond very well to it.

Mostly if I prime its for uniformity or if the kit is molded in black i'll prime in white or grey so I don't have to shoot a million coats. But i'm a novice, still learning a lot about the airbrushing scene.

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Clifford

• Member since
  March 2003

I still use enamels on everything I build. The only things I have ever primed are the resin and metal figures I build. I have never had a problem with not priming any aircraft or plastic sailing ships that I have built. Except for the figures, I have never even washed plastic parts before painting and putting the kit together and have never had any problems. Some of the kits I have built have been sitting on the shelf for 19 years. No problems.

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John @ WEM

• Member since
  January 2005

It will depend on the paint you're using, and on the substrate to which you're applying it. For example, our Colourcoats enamels are formulated to be "self-etching" on plastic. They don't require a primer on plastic, and you don't even have to worry about washing the plastic to get rid of mold-release agent residue. On the other hand, I'd recommend using a primer for resin kits.

Cheers,

John Snyder, White Ensign Models, http://WhiteEnsignModels.com

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