Stories from the Lab: Butter vs Crisco for Biscuits | CIA Culinary School (2024)

Stories from the Lab: Butter vs Crisco for Biscuits | CIA Culinary School (1)

Butter or Crisco? The never-ending debate.Which gives the most height? Which has the most flavor? In my Culinary Chemistry class, we experimented to find out. In this lab exercise, we tested the limits of liquid to gas phase changes. There are so many useful applications in the culinary world that require and benefit from volume changes. All liquids expand in volume when they change phases and transition into a gas. That’s actually what is occurring on the molecular level of biscuit baking. Chefs can find this useful when creating other desserts such as pie crusts and puff pastries.

So, are you ready? Let the comparison begin!

Here’s what we used:

IngredientsAmounts
Butter85 grams
Crisco85 grams
AP flour600 grams
Salt4 grams
Whole milk360 grams
Baking soda20 grams

And here’s how we did it:

  1. Cut butter and Crisco into 1 cm cubes and chill.
  2. Preheat oven to 230°C.
  3. Add 300 grams of flour each into two large mixing bowls. Add 2 grams of salt and 10 grams of baking soda to each bowl.
  4. Add 85 grams of butter to one bowl and 85 grams of Crisco to the other. Distribute evenly throughout the mixtures until there are no big pieces.
  5. Make a well in the center of the flour mixture and add 180 grams of milk to each. Mix to combine and until the dough is one even mass; knead sparingly.
  6. Flatten out both doughs to a height of 1.5 cm for cutting. With a round ring cutter, punch out the biscuits.
  7. Cook in the oven for about 8 minutes, or until golden brown.

After the biscuits finished baking, the height and flavor profiles were measured, analyzed, and recorded. Flavor-wise, the Crisco biscuits seemed to be drier and had a pastier flavor profile compared to the butter biscuits. My team members and I also found that the biscuits made with Crisco produced the greatest height. However, other teams found that the biscuits made with butter produced the greatest height. The varying results could be because of over-kneading of the doughs or the doughs not being flattened to exactly 1.5 cm. But according to our professor, Marisa Monaghan, the butter should have been the rising champ.

Stories from the Lab: Butter vs Crisco for Biscuits | CIA Culinary School (2)
Stories from the Lab: Butter vs Crisco for Biscuits | CIA Culinary School (3)

Why, you ask?Well, let’s talk science. Butter contains water. During baking, this water evaporates during its phase change from a liquid to a gas. This causes the gluten strains to stretch in the dough, usually resulting in the greater height. Crisco is the result of hydrogenation. Hydrogenation is the removal of double bonds in fats by addition of hydrogen molecules. Crisco does not have any water incorporation, which ultimately shortens the gluten strands of the dough.

If you aren’t familiar with gluten, here’s a short summary. According to the CIA’s Baking and Pastry book, gluten is the protein component in wheat flour that builds structure and strength in baked goods. It is developed when the proteins glutenin and gliadin are moistened or kneaded. It provides the characteristic elasticity and extensibility of doughs. That being said, typically in the baking process, liquids provide the moisture necessary for the hydration of the dough, which in turn aids the gluten development and rising.

Participating in this biscuit-making lab was so exciting. I previously never used Crisco at all before this experiment, so it was interesting to see exactly what it was capable of doing. The texture reminded me of coconut oil, yet it didn’t have a set distinctive smell. Moving forward, whenever I make biscuits, I know that butter is the way to go. Try this experiment out yourself if you are curious. Crisco may be beneficial for other baking applications, but for biscuit making, butter is the ultimatechampion!

By Majestic Lewis-Bryant

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Majestic Lewis-Bryant

Majestic graduated from the CIA with her associate degree in culinary arts in 2017 and her bachelor’s degree in culinary science in 2019. After completing those programs, she decided to follow her passion and pursue an additional bachelor’s degree in applied food studies. She just completed the Farm-to-Table Concentration.

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Stories from the Lab: Butter vs Crisco for Biscuits | CIA Culinary School (2024)

FAQs

Stories from the Lab: Butter vs Crisco for Biscuits | CIA Culinary School? ›

My team members and I also found that the biscuits made with Crisco produced the greatest height. However, other teams found that the biscuits made with butter produced the greatest height. The varying results could be because of over-kneading of the doughs or the doughs not being flattened to exactly 1.5 cm.

Is it better to make biscuits with butter or Crisco? ›

The butter version rises the highest — look at those flaky layers! The shortening biscuit is slightly shorter and a bit drier, too. Butter contains a bit of water, which helps create steam and gives baked goods a boost.

Is it better to use butter or lard in biscuits? ›

The stronger the bond, the tougher the crust and vice versa. Lard also has a higher melting point than butter, melting between 109 and 118° F while butter melts somewhere between 90 and 95° F. A slower render means more air and steam-release, which means more leavening and flakiness.

What is the best fat for making biscuits? ›

High-fat butter, such as Kerrygold Butter, is best. The rich fat from the butter releases water when the biscuits are baking which is what contributes to the beautiful layers and flakiness that we love about biscuits.

What is the ratio of butter to flour in biscuits? ›

The biscuit with very little butter wasn't as soft and flaky, but it was more structurally sound. Conclusion: None of these biscuits were bad, but again, the middle option seems to be the best choice. A ratio of 1/2 cup of butter to 2 cups of flour (1:4) seems to work pretty well.

What are 2 major advantages of using butter instead of shortening? ›

Cookies Made with Butter vs Shortening

The butter cookie provides better flavor and a crispier exterior with browning around edges and a chewy interior; the shortening cookie spreads less, holding its shape better while baking.

Why are my homemade biscuits so dense? ›

When you cut in your fat, you leave it in small pea-sized lumps. Those lumps get coated in flour and melt during baking into layers. If your fats are too warm, the lumps will melt and form a hom*ogeneous dough, resulting in dense, leaden biscuits.

What is the best butter to use for biscuits? ›

Although unsalted butter is the preferred choice for bakers, spreadable butters like Western Star Soft and Spreadable Soft n Less Salt can be used straight from the fridge. For creaming butter and sugar for biscuit and cake doughs it should be used chilled.

How to make biscuits rise higher? ›

Most biscuit recipes will tell you to fold or stack the dough in on itself once or twice, rolling it out in between stacking. If your favorite recipe isn't yielding the height that you'd like to see, consider adding an extra fold or two, which will create more layers.

How thick should biscuit dough be? ›

It should be a fairly wet dough. Turn the dough out onto a floured work surface and pat it into a circle about 1/2-inch thick. Do NOT roll the dough. This will over work the gluten in the biscuit and make it tough.

What type of flour makes the best biscuits? ›

As far as brands of flour, White Lily “all-purpose” flour has been my go-to for biscuit making. It's a soft red winter wheat, and the low protein and low gluten content keep biscuits from becoming too dense.

Does sifting flour make biscuits better? ›

The solution: Use half cake flour and half all-purpose flour. This combination will give you a biscuit with light and airy interior with a pleasant, satisfying bite on the outside. Also, sifting the flour and other dry ingredients will give you a smoother, airier dough.

Should shortening be cold when making biscuits? ›

Fat is essential for the lightest and fluffiest biscuits! Butter adds more flavor, but shortening makes the biscuits more tender because it doesn't contain water or milk solids. The fat must be cold.

Are biscuits better made with butter or crisco? ›

Crisco may be beneficial for other baking applications, but for biscuit making, butter is the ultimate champion!

Can you put too much butter in biscuits? ›

in this case, it appears that the biscuit structure is just a lot more stable (structurally speaking) when there's less butter. When you get a lot of butter, you're kind of filling your biscuit with holes, which makes it unable to bear its own weight to rise very far.

What is the basic biscuit formula? ›

The basic formula is as follows: 2 cups AP flour, 2 teaspoons baking powder, 1/2 teaspoon baking soda, 1/2 teaspoon salt, 6 tablespoons butter, 1/2 cup milk—and the add-in(s) of your choice. I'm giving you two savory options. The red is a sun-dried tomato and cheddar biscuit with paprika and a touch of cayenne.

What makes biscuits taste better? ›

Use good butter and dairy

Because biscuit recipes call for so few ingredients, it's important that every one is high quality—you'll really taste the difference. Catherine recommends splurging a bit on a grass-fed butter or European-style butter (now's the time to reach for Kerrygold!).

How does shortening affect biscuits? ›

Shortening is used in most doughs and batters, to give the baked product a crisp and crumbly texture. Rubbing the fat in causes the baked product to have a flaky texture, as the dough is separated into layers.

Which is healthier to bake with Crisco or butter? ›

Nutrition. Some say butter is not the healthiest choice when cooking, but compared to shortening, it packs way more nutrition value. Harvard Public Health even states that fats are crucial to our health, and butter is more of a natural and heart-healthy ingredient overall.

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