How To Raise A Wheel On A Pinewood Derby Car (2024)
Your pinewood derby car will run faster if one of the front wheels is raised. Some race rules specify that all four wheels must touch the trackso read your rules before following the steps on this page.
Some blocks are slightly warped and will naturally have a raised wheel. Before raising a wheel, mount the four wheels on your block and check for a raised wheel. Push the car on a flat surface. If one of the wheels doesn't turn while the car is moving then you have a raised wheel car and you don't need to follow these instructions. Even if all the wheels turn when you push your car, you may still have a wheel that is slightly higher than the rest. Place your car on a flat surface then press down on each of the front corners of the car in turn with your finger. If the corner moves down as you press then thewheel on that corner is higher and it should be the wheel that you raise.
Before you begin, decide which side of the pinewood derby car should have the raised wheel. You will want the car to steer slightly toward the raised wheel so draw a straight line on a flat surface then push your car (with all four wheels attached) down the line. The car will drift to one side of the line. The side of the line that the caris drifting to is the side of the car that should have the raised wheel. For example, if the car drifts to the right then raise the front right wheel.
You will need:
One flat toothpick
Wood or paper glue
Credit card
If you don't have a flat toothpick, you can sand downa round toothpick until it is flat. You can also use a small diameter wire or string.
Our Axle Installer will make this procedure easier and can be ordered at the bottom of this page.
1. Spin all of your wheels on an axle. Use the slowest wheel (the one that spins for the shortest time) on the raised axle. 2. Cut off 1/2" fromthe small end of the toothpick. This is the part that you will use. Discard the rest of the toothpick.
3.Glue the toothpick in the bottom of the front slot on the side that you want the wheel to touch the track. The end of the toothpick should not quite reach the side of the block. Use the credit card to firmly press the toothpick into theslot. Let dry. 4. Add another drop of glue in the slot about 1/4" from the block side. This will help hold the axle in place.
5. Insert theaxle installer all the way in the slot. The end of the axle installer should be flush with the side of the block.
6. Press your thumb on the axle installer and start the axle into the slot between the toothpick and axle installer. Stop after about 1/8". The axle installer will raise up slightly as you push the axle in.
7. Place the wheel on the axle installer base then slowly press down on the car block while holding your thumb against the axle installer. You may need to wiggle the block a little when starting to make sure that the axle goes in straight. Push the axle all the way in. The axle installer will automatically set the proper gap.
8. Check that the wheel opposite from the side with the toothpick is now raised. If it still turns when you push the car, repeat this procedure by adding another toothpick.
9. Placea drop of glue on the axle, keeping the glue away from the wheel.
Press your thumb on the axle installer and start the axle into the slot between the toothpick and axle installer. Stop after about 1/8". The axle installer will raise up slightly as you push the axle in.
Wheels may not be tapered or rounded. Only wheels and axles from the official Pinewood Derby kit may be used. Beveling, routing, tapering, perforating or any other significant altering of the shape and performance of the wheels is prohibited.
Don't forget your safety goggles! Starting with about 300 grit sandpaper sand the wheels. Work up to as fine of grit as you can find. Only sand enough to remove imperfections and make the wheel round as possible.
Slide the axles and wheels onto the car and glue into place. Use an epoxy or nonresin glue, and make sure you don't get any on the surface of the axle where the wheel rides.
The wheels are a significant source of potential energy drain on a Pinewood Derby® car. Raising the non-steer wheel (typically the front left) so it does not contact the track reduces the amount of energy used to start the wheels spinning.
Wheels may be sanded/lathed/filed to smooth out molding imperfections in the tread area. The contact surface of the wheel must be flat as it sits on the track. Beveling, tapering, significant rounding, pointing, shaving, concave, wafering, etc. of the wheel contact area is prohibited.
Baking your Pinewood Derby wooden block helps to remove the moisture so that you have more wiggle room to add extra weight at the end. Remember, every little bit of weight in the right place makes a difference! Bake it in the oven at 250° for about 2 hours.
We recommend installing axles with a 1.5° bend for the front of the car and 2.5° bend for the rear. The axles heads are marked in the direction of the bend.
The axle holes (and, therefore, the wheels) must be at the same height, and precisely aligned to each other. The rear wheels must be parallel to each other and the car body. Additionally, the wheels must be located directly across from one another.
The minimum ground clearance from the bottom of the wheels to the bottom of the lowest part of the car other than the wheels must be at least 3/8 of an inch, including weights and accessories.
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