Anumber of years ago, my husband and I stopped for Sunday lunch at a country trattoria outside of Rome. We knew it would be good because the place was packed with big family groups, eating, talking and having a marvelous time. As the waiter took our order, he alerted us that the kitchen was busy and it would take a while for our food to come out. We sat back to enjoy the scene, but he soon returned carrying a big platter. In the center were thick slices of country bread crisped on the grill, rubbed with fresh garlic and glistening with rich green olive oil. Small wedges of Parmigiano Reggiano surrounded the bread. It wasn't long before the platter was empty, and most of a bottle of wine, too.
The Italians call the toast bruschetta (broo-SKEH-tah or broo-SHEH-tah), from the word bruscare, meaning to roast over the coals. They are perfect served as appetizers or canapes, delicious but modestly priced starters to a New Year's Eve party or dinner.
The most important ingredient is the bread. A chewy rustic loaf is ideal, preferably one that won't get too hard when toasted. The bread can be prepared in a toaster, under the broiler or on top of a grill. Toast the bread just before adding the topping so that the warmth can enhance the topping flavor.
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Bruschetta slices can be large or small, but a slice about three inches in diameter by half-inch thick is ideal. Italians call smaller, thinner slices, such as those from a French baguette or small Italian loaf crostini, meaning "little toasts."
Many of us in the United States may think of bruschetta as being topped with chopped ripe tomatoes; it's such a favorite here that it has become something of a cliche. But Italians have many other variations.
The classic version that we first sampled in the Roman trattoria is the original garlic bread, though it bears little resemblance to what goes by that name here. In Italy, the garlic is always fresh, not dried, and there are no herbs, butter or margarine, just aromatic extra virgin olive oil. In Tuscany, the bread is unsalted, so sometimes coarse salt is sprinkled on. Bread, garlic, oil and maybe salt make perfect bruschetta, proving once again that Italians are the masters of simple cooking.
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Beyond the basic, there are endless ways to vary bruschetta by adding different toppings. I prefer toppings that stay where I put them and are not too drippy so that they are easy to eat. Cherry tomatoes and whole beans, though they may taste great, do not make good toppings because they slide off easily. Unless the bruschetta will be served on a plate with a knife and fork, whole slices of prosciutto, salami or other meats are not practical either since they may be difficult to bite through. Chopped or pureed tomatoes, meat, fish, vegetables and beans are much better choices. Firm cheese, especially when melted, or soft cheese mashed with butter, herbs, nuts or dried fruits are delicious too.
Smoked salmon chopped with chives, lemon and chopped radishes is delicate and sophisticated; serve it on thinner crostini slices at holiday parties. Mushroom "pa^te{acute}" flavored with garlic and cream is luscious on warm toasted bread; for a meatless lunch, serve it with a green salad. Greens such as spinach or Swiss chard steamed with garlic and a pinch of hot pepper make a great topping for bruschetta, especially when they are topped with a slice of melting mozzarella. If you thought the season for bruschetta ended with the last of summer's ripe tomatoes, think again and try some of these variations at your holiday party.
Smoked Salmon Bruschetta
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(Makes 16 bruschetta)
It's nearly impossible to come up with an appetizer that boasts both ease of preparation and an overwhelmingly positive response. This is one of the few.
4 ounces smoked salmon, finely chopped
2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh chives
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 to 2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
16 slices (1/4 inch thick) Italian or French bread
About 3 radishes, finely chopped
Preheat the broiler.
In a bowl, combine the salmon, chives, oil and lemon juice to taste. On a baking sheet, broil bread until golden brown on 1 side. Turn bread and toast on second side.
Place a spoonful of salmon mixture onto each slice of toasted bread and sprinkle with the radish. Serve immediately.
Per bruschetta: 37 calories, 2 gm protein, 3 gm carbohydrates, 2 gm fat, 2 mg cholesterol, trace saturated fat, 180 mg sodium, trace dietary fiber
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Mushroom and Parmesan Bruschetta
(Makes 8 bruschetta)
Though the cream may seem superfluous when there is already butter and cheese, it ties the flavors together and gives the topping a cohesive quality.
2 tablespoons butter
8 ounces mushrooms, chopped
1 small clove garlic, minced
Pinch finely chopped fresh thyme leaves
About 1/3 cup heavy (whipping) cream
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
8 slices (1/2 inch thick) Italian or French bread
Small chunk Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
Preheat the broiler.
Heat the butter in a medium skillet over medium heat. Add the mushrooms, garlic and thyme and cook, stirring occasionally, until the mushrooms release most of their liquid, about 5 minutes. Increase the heat to medium-high and cook, stirring frequently, until the liquid has evaporated, about 5 minutes. Add the cream, reduce the heat to medium and simmer, stirring constantly, just until the cream thickens and coats the mushrooms. Remove from the heat; season with salt and pepper to taste.
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On a baking sheet, broil bread until golden brown on 1 side. Turn bread and toast on second side.
Immediately place a spoonful of the mushroom mixture onto each slice of toasted bread and spread it over the surface. Using a vegetable peeler, shave thin slices of cheese over the mushroom mixture. Serve immediately.
Per bruschetta: 132 calories, 4 gm protein, 11 gm carbohydrates, 8 gm fat, 23 mg cholesterol, 5 gm saturated fat, 242 mg sodium, 1 gm dietary fiber
Spinach and Mozzarella Bruschetta
(About 16 bruschetta)
Using fresh mozzarella elevates this appetizer from good to remarkable.
8 slices (1/2 inch thick) Italian or French bread
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 large clove garlic, very finely chopped
Crushed red pepper flakes to taste
9 to 12 ounces fresh spinach, rinsed and trimmed
Salt to taste
8 thin slices whole-milk mozzarella cheese, preferably fresh (about 4 ounces)
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Preheat the broiler. On a baking sheet, broil bread until golden brown on 1 side. Turn bread and toast on second side.
In a large skillet over medium heat, heat the oil, garlic and crushed red pepper flakes and cook, stirring frequently, until the garlic begins to turn golden, about 2 minutes.
Add the spinach and salt to taste, cover and cook, stirring occasionally, until the spinach is wilted and tender, about 5 minutes. Remove from the heat; set aside.
Line a baking sheet with foil.
Arrange the bread on the sheet. Place a spoonful of the spinach mixture onto each slice of toasted bread and spread it over the surface. Top each with a slice of cheese.
Broil just until the cheese begins to melt, 1 to 2 minutes. Serve immediately.
Per bruschetta: 142 calories, 6 gm protein, 13 gm carbohydrates, 7 gm fat, 11 mg cholesterol, 2 gm saturated fat, 284 mg sodium, 4 gm dietary fiber
Michele Scicolone is the author of "Italian Holiday Cooking" (William Morrow, $35). She can be reached at mscicolone@springmail.com.
